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In today’s post I share with you a complete photo tutorial guide to paint the Bloater from the Nurgle’s Rotters Blood Bowl team pictured above. More after the jump!

This tutorial assumes you have a basic understanding of how to paint. For the beginners, I will explain the techniques as I go along. Each picture below shows four chronological steps. Underneath each picture are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint I used during that step.

Paints you will need for this tutorial:

Contrast Medium

Lahmian Medium

Celestra Grey (Base)

Xereus Purple (layer)

Ulthuan Grey (layer)

Flash Gitz Yellow (layer)

Bloodletter Glaze (technical) (replace with Contrast Blood Angels Red)

Kalabite Green (layer)

Druchii Violet (shade)

Sybarite Green (layer)

Brass Scorpion (layer)

Warplock Bronze (layer)

Hashut Copper (layer)

Nihilakh Oxide (technical)

XV-88 (base)

Nuln Oil (shade)

Steel Legion Brass (base)

1. Undercoat your model black (i’ve used Vallejo Surface Primer in my airbrush)

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2. Take some Celestra Grey from the pot with a brush and add it to your paint palette, then add some water to thin the paint. Paint on two to three thin coats until the coverage is solid. Depending on how neat you are you might want to tidy up the edges with some black. 

3. Add a small amount of Xereus Purple to your palette then mix in some Contrast medium (use a clean brush to take it from the pot) the Contrast medium is designed on to shrink and pull the pigment together as it dries. What this means for miniature painters is the recesses have a stronger concentration of pigment than raised areas. Apply the Contrast Xerues Purple mix to the skin areas in long fluid strokes with a large brush. Make sure the brush is fully loaded with the mixture. You want to use as few strokes as possible. If you see the mixture pooling in one area use a clean brush to wick it away before it dries. 

4. Mix Lahmian Medium and Ulthuan Grey together on your palette. 3 parts medium to 1 part paint is a rough guide. This is your glaze. Carefully pick out all the raised areas with your glaze. The paint will be translucent and you will require several coats so keep repeating. This is a great way to blend the highlights into the skin colour without any abrupt colour transitions. 

5. Paint the eyes with Flash Gitz Yellow.

6. Use Bloodletter Glaze or one of the new Contrast Reds and paint over the sores, lesions and also the eyes.

7. Paint the fabrics with Kabalite Green, this will take take two to three thin coats. Thin with water.

8. Using Druchii Violet shade paint over the fabric areas with a heavy wash.

9. Using thinned Kabalite Green carefully pick out the raised areas of the fabrics.

10. Using your smallest brush, apply edge highlights of Sybarite Green. Thin the paint slightly with water until you get a nice flow from the bristles. It’s easier to paint thin lines then having a thick paint that you have to drag the brush over the model to get the paint to shift.

11. Paint all the armour pieces with Brass Scorpion. I like to mix a touch of Lahmian Medium into the the paint on my palette. It helps smooth the paint.

12. Mix 1 part Contrast Medium with 1 part Warplock Bronze on your palette and apply it to the bronze areas.

13. Using Hashut Copper paint over the bronzed raised parts leaving some of the previous two layers showing.

14. Paint Nihilakh Oxide into recesses to show copper oxidisation. If you want to be more accurate to real life, paint this all over the bronze areas. I wanted to only use a little.

15. Paint the boots, gloves, belt, straps and wood with Rhinox Hide should only take one coat.

16. Pick out al the raised areas on the boots, gloves, belt, straps and wood with Doombull Brown.

17. Carefully paint all edges of the previous layer you just painted with XV-88.

18. Mix a touch of Contrast Medium with Nuln Oil on your palette and then apply it to all the leather and wood areas you just painted.

To finish your model add team marking transfers and paint the base. I painted my base with Steel Legion Drab and washed the sand with Agrax Earthshade. Then glued static grass on top. 

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