Pro Acryl finally made their Contrast paint, and it’s actually different: the 1step review

I’ve had a good look at the new Pro Acryl 1step paints from Monument Hobbies – and from the very first brushstroke it became obvious: these are a quite different beast from every other Contrast and Speedpaint alternative out there. Whether that’s a good or bad thing, I’ll tell you in this deep dive video review.

So for this review, I’ve prepared a video with four segments for you:

1. First, I’ll give you a quick explainer of what’s supposed to set 1step paints apart from Contrast and Speedpaints.
2. We put that to the test in practice, as I paint a Freeguild Steelhelm from start to finish.
3. I have comparisons with Contrast and Speedpaint and try more advanced techniques like glazing and feathering.
4. And fourth, you get my verdict, where I’ll tell you how the 1step paints stack up against the competition and which painting styles I’d recommend them for – and which I wouldn’t.

What is Pro Acryl 1step?

Monument Hobbies have always liked to do things their own way, which is probably why it took them so long to develop their answer to Warhammer Contrast and The Army Painter Speedpaint. And at the time of this video, there’s actually only a single set of 12 colours plus the 1step special sauce medium available. That’s quite limited compared to the competition – The Army Painter now offers over 90 Speedpaint colours. More 1step expansion sets will surely follow. But Pro Acryl has always favoured a compact palette, which means you do need to mix some colours yourself.

When we crack open the set, the 1step paints come in the same 22ml bottles as all other Pro Acryl paints, complete with those screw-on nozzles you either love or hate.

First impressions: painting a Freeguild Steelhelm with 1step

But what does 1step actually do differently? Monument Hobbies promises a smoother, more consistent finish, and a paint that grows with you and excels at more advanced techniques. So let’s put that to the test.

I have a Freeguild Steelhelm from Warhammer Age of Sigmar, which I’ve given a zenithal undercoat with white over black primer using an airbrush. Later in the review, I’ll show you some comparisons with other one coat paint brands, but for the Steelhelm I’ll stick exclusively to 1step and share my impressions and tips and tricks along the way.

I’m going for the classic Hammerhal Aqsha colour scheme with lots of fiery reds and oranges. I start with the shield, painting the wood with a single coat of 1step Orange, a generous amount straight from the bottle with no thinning. The consistency is similar to Contrast, so not quite as runny as Speedpaint. It handles well and flows easily off the brush. The orange is nicely intense and vivid, reminding me strongly of Magmadroth Flame or Vallejo Xpress Color Phoenix Orange. As you can see in the video, on the back of the shield, the paint isn’t completely transparent. The areas left black by the zenithal undercoat get partially covered by those orange pigments. Let’s see whether the other colours behave the same way.

For the shoulder cloak, I want a slightly darker, more muted orange, so I mix a little 1step Warm Brown into the Orange. 1step paints mix well, and I think the result looks great, with a soft matte finish. For the trousers, I mix 1step Warm Brown with 1step Dark Green Brown to get a mud colour. Then I paint the lower part of the gambeson with pure 1step Crimson. This one carries less pigment intensity than the Orange, so the white areas of the zenithal undercoat show through more strongly. Next, I paint the leather with pure 1step Warm Brown. This one is very heavily pigmented again. In hindsight I should have added a drop of medium to thin it slightly, as it overpowered most of the pre-shading.

Warm Brown is also more opaque than what you might expect from Contrast-style paints, and that’s a good jumping-off point to talk about the “technology” behind this type of paint.

Pigment vs. pigment: the science behind one-coat paints

Regular acrylic paints consist of finely ground, opaque pigments in a solution of acrylic medium and additives – the goal is to build a solid, covering layer of colour on the model. Contrast and Speedpaint-style paints work differently. Instead of larger particle opaque pigments, they use ultra-finely ground, transparent pigments that act more like a coloured filter than a covering coat. The same principle applies to washes, inks, and artist acrylics with a high tinting strength. Because these transparent pigments are so fine, they flow easily into recesses and settle there, creating that instant shading effect. Of course, some regular acrylic paints do include a proportion of high-tint pigments to boost vibrancy, and some one-coat paints and washes also contain more opaque pigments. The key difference is simply this: regular acrylics aim to cover, while Contrast-style paints and washes aim to tint and shade.

Update: In the video, I used the term “dye” incorrectly to classify Contrast-like paints. The main colourant is actually ultra-finely ground, transparent pigments with high tinting strength. True dyes in the strict chemical sense are rarely used in hobby paints, as they fade very quickly. I have corrected this review, but unfortunately, it is no longer possible to change the video.Thanks to @MrPigments for pointing out the difference!

In the Warhammer Contrast range, examples include Ultramarines Blue, Nighthaunt Gloom, and Gutrippa Flesh. These use additional white pigment, and you can see this separate and settle to the bottom over time. Then, there are Imperial Fist, Magmadroth Flame, and Doomfire Magenta, which don’t contain white pigment, but are still quite opaque. And in the Speedpaint range, there are SP Thunderbird Blue, SP Lizardfolk Cyan, and SP Howling Sand, for example. If you’re familiar with those, you’ll have a rough idea of what to expect from 1step. In fact, 1step Warm Yellow is virtually identical to Imperial Fist, as you can see here on this white-primed test model.

By the way, for a list of all the Contrast-style colours that are opaque, please refer to my one-coat paint comparison chart. I’ve marked all the relevant colours there. The chart covers all one-coat paints from every manufacturer, organised by colour; and if you already own an older version, you can now grab the free 7-in-1 update including all new 1step colours.:

This hand-painted swatch is available in my Patreon shop for a small donation (or by becoming an Autarch tier member). I also have swatches for Citadel, Vallejo Game and Model Color, Warpaints Fanatic, AK 3rd Gen and more – all cross-compatible with each other so you can compare colours across different brands. Check out my shop for details.

1step is also now included in my hand-painted Pro Acryl colour swatch. You’ll find the Stahly Swatch System on my Patreon.

So to sum up: 1step paints are semi-transparent one-coat paints, a hybrid blend of transparent colourants and opaque pigment. That comes with advantages and also disadvantages. Let me show you what I mean.

How the hybrid formula affects zenithal priming and Slapchop

Next, I’m painting the face with pure 1step Shadow Flesh, and in the video you can see how the opaque pigment overpowers the darker areas. For Slapchop or zenithal pre-shading, one-coat paints without opaque pigments work better in my opinion. They’re more transparent and act more like a colour filter that doesn’t cover the dark areas. Instead, they make them even darker.

The advantage is that adding opaque pigments can produce a smoother overall result. Here I have four white-primed test models. The left side I’ve painted with 1step, the right side with Warhammer Contrast and Speedpaint colours that contain no opaque pigments. Contrast and Speedpaint often struggle on smooth surfaces, where the paint tends to pool and leave dark blotches. Most visible on the Akhelian Green test model here. The opaque pigments in 1step’s hybrid formula help to smooth things out for a more even result. Please note that the ratio of opaque pigment is not the same for all 1step colours. 1step Royal Purple and 1step Graphite Green, for example, have a lower amount of opaque pigment, which you can see as they share a more similar profile to Contrast and Speedpaint.

If you apply multiple layers, the difference becomes even more apparent. Contrast and Speedpaint colours without opaque pigments just get darker and darker and blotchier. 1step colours do get darker too, but look a little closer, there is a subtle difference. They have the tendency to become more opaque and uniform.

You can use this to great effect when painting armies with lots of smooth armour, like Space Marines. Here are two coats of 1step Warm Yellow over white primer for a very smooth, almost effortless coat of yellow.

Testing advanced techniques: glazing with 1step

So this hybrid formula is fantastic for large flat areas, and it can also help with glazing. In their painting streams on YouTube, the Monument Hobbies guys are particularly enthusiastic about 1step paints for advanced techniques. So let me put that to the test now, and after that I’ll show you how the 1step paints behave over metallics.

For the shield, I want a colour gradient in the wood, going from orange to red. There’s no pure red in the range yet, so I use 1step Crimson, thinned 1:1 with medium, and glaze it on in thin layers. In this small area, that works pretty well.

For the heraldry, I want to glaze in a gradient too. For the sake of this demo I’ve basecoated this panel completely white so you can see the gradient more clearly. There’s no bone colour among the first twelve 1step colours, so I have to mix my own. I combine 1step Shadow Flesh with 1step Warm Yellow and a touch of 1step Warm Brown, and thin the whole mix slightly with water to lighten it up.

I apply a thin first coat, making sure the brush isn’t too wet. Once it’s dry, I build up more thin layers step by step, getting gradually darker towards the bottom. I also tried thinning the paint with medium and feathering out the glazes, but found that actually introduced more texture rather than fewer. Here’s the result. With more patience and a few more thin layers you could certainly push the gradient even smoother.

I should say, though, that I personally prefer regular acrylics for glazing and feathering. The problem I have with one-coat paints and washes is that their medium develops a thin, invisible skin on the surface while they cure. If you take too much time and try to go back in with the brush and make corrections, you get that typical smearing effect as you tear the half-dryed surface. The faster a one-coat paint or wash dries, the more prone it is to tearing. I’d say 1step paints have a good amount of working time to make corrections or soak up excess paint, but the underlying issue remains. Do you also struggle a bit with glazing one coat paints or is it just me? Do you have a trick or special medium you use? Please tell me in the comments below.

Using 1step over metallics

Now let me show you the same process over metallics. I’ve basecoated the armour with Vallejo True Metallic Metal Obsidian Black Light, though the Pro Acryl metallics would also be a very good alternative. There’s no pure black among the first twelve 1step colours, so I use 1step Graphite Grey instead, which is a dark neutral grey. For the chainmail I thin it 1:1 with medium to create a heavy wash and apply it all over. For the armour I want to build up shading with several thin coats of 1step Graphite Grey, following the light direction from above. I thin the 1step paint with water to a glaze consistency and apply several thin layers. I’m no Golden Demon painter and did have to go back in with some thinned silver, but overall, I’m pretty happy with the result. So experimenting in that direction with 1step is definitely worth a go.

Finished model and final verdict

Here’s the finished Steelhelm. I painted the base by wetblending 1step Dark Green into 1step Dark Green Brown, then added some tufts and a decal. You could certainly take it further with some edge highlights, but for a quick 30-minute paint job I’m really pleased with how the model turned out. So what’s my overall verdict on the 1step paints?

I usually give a score at this point, but since I’ve only been able to test the first 12 colours, I don’t want to commit fully just yet. Right now I’d probably land somewhere around an 8, but I need to see how the range grows and if it stays true to this hybrid semi-transparent formula. I want Monument Hobbies to carve out their own space in the one-coat paint market, rather than just releasing yet another straight Contrast clone. Actually, Scale 75 did attempt something similar with their Instant Colors, trying to fuse Contrast-style paints with opaque pigments. But because the Instant Color palette was rather pastel and muted, it didn’t land well with many painters. 1step paints, in comparison, are much more vibrant and intensely coloured.

Should you buy Pro Acryl 1step?

So if you’re open to the idea of semi-transparent one-coat paints, give 1step a try. Perhaps you enjoyed the aforementioned more opaque Contrast and Speedpaints and want more of that. The opaqueness comes in super handy on flat areas like armour, where it can achieve a more uniform result. For advanced techniques, the hybrid formula can also be an exciting new tool to experiment with, though not a revolutionary one. However, if you do a lot of preshading work like for Slapchop or zenithal priming, you can safely stick with your current Contrast, Speedpaint, or Quick Gen paints. Those ranges are mainly transparent, which means no opaque pigments covering up your dark areas.

You can find the latest hobby products at our 🇬🇧/🇪🇺 partner stores Wayland Games, Element Games, and Firestorm Games, at 🇩🇪 Taschengelddieb and PK-Pro, and at 🇺🇸 Noble Knight Games with a welcome discount of up to 10 – 15% over RRP. Using our links helps to support Tale of Painters at no additional cost to you, so thank you very much for using them!

I hope you found this review helpful, feel free to leave a reaction or comment below, or post your questions here or discuss on our Discord channel.