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Oh dear, everyone's favourite troll Hari Bray has crept out from beneath his bridge again! Honestly Garfy, I think your hundreds of positive feedback posts and countless excellent tutorials outweigh the negativity of one moaner!
Thanks for the support guys. I really appreciate it.
"I will definitely do a Space Wolf tutorial when they receive their new book" – Garfy 2012
yeah I'm such an arsehole writing and photographing over 100 tutorials for the blog FOR NOTHING. How about I stop making promises and promise not to make anymore. That would be easier.
Really don't appreciate being called out for my failings in such a public way when I've already done so much.
Im just winding you up, think you need to calm down mate.
I just find it weird that they are one of the main chapters and there is no tutorial on them still. When you consider how many tutorials on spacemarines you have it is strange that Spacewolves have been left.
Plus when I read you were going to possibly put out a space wolf model in your latest post I thought maybe you could do one of your top notch tutorials on it.
Why would you bother winding him up when you don't know they guy?!! Seems a pointless thing to do as Garfy is only doing good thing by contributing to this blog and trying to help people. Personally I would feel a little ashamed by what you wrote as it comes across as a bit spiteful. Maybe instead of being negative towards people you start a blog and use your time posite instead of being negative to others. Just a thought.
Nice to see the baal pred started. Im curious about the tracks. I get the sub assembly bit for many of the other parts for best results when painting but are the tracks still on sprue? Dont you get problems with cleaning up mold and clipper marks when you are doing the final assembly? I do the tracks on the model and paint them with a brush. Im interested to see if there is a better option.
Incidentally I haven't tried the gw airpaints. My airbrush compressor died last year and I haven't had the cash to replace it. I do like the vallejo bottles though. I tend to transfer paints into old vallejo bottles when I have the time.
I've found that painting the treads on the sprue (as opposed to on the tank) gives much better access and coverage to all the different pieces. The small amount of clean up from removing the sprue pales in comparison to the ease of getting your desired look without worrying about fitting the brush into tight spaces.
One option I tried on a recent rhino was to reverse weather the tracks: step one was painting the treads using dirty/muddy colors and step two was dry brushing steel over that to just catch the edges that are most likely to be getting cleaned off every time the tread catches a hard spot (rock/road/etc). Two minutes of touchup is all that's required after adding to the rhino, and some additional light work with a sponge, airbrush, and/or pigments ties all the pieces together so you can't tell they were built separate. Just one option.
I switched everything to Vallejo when I bought an airbrush, and so initially didn't like the cap bottles from FW and GW. I do like the color range though, especially since I already had most of the existing GW paint system still. A quick purchase of some plastic pipettes later and I've realized that I actually prefer the flip cap bottles to the eyedropper bottles. I find that with the eye droppers, I end up with too much crusted paint gathering around the cap, occasionally dropping back into the paint and causing clogs (either in the bottle or in the airbrush if the solid bits get in). For some reason I don't have that problem with Reaper, just with Vallejo.
I find that a problem with some vallejo paints but not all, either way easy fix, just wipe the tip of the dropper before you screw the cap on and use a needle to clear the dropper throat when you want to dispense
Looking cool. Have you ever thought about tranfering the GW paints to dropper bottles with a tiny metal ball in them. I saw a lady do it over on Facebook do it a few months ago and tried it myself. It works really well, but it is a major hassle transfering paints if you have a lot of them.
6 – 9mm Glass beads from a craft shop work better than metal balls, had some BB's which started to rust in the paint when i done that, also worth putting them in any paint you have to help in mixing…
Your right, I meant glass beads. It was a long time ago when I transfered them. I think metal ones would mess up the paint or something like that.
I find the easiest way to get paint from citadels pots is with the ball end of a drinks stirrer, the sort you find on the bar at a wetherspoons or similar establishment, or come in a cocktail set.
Ive found a higher PSI helps when using the citadel air range compared to other brands out of the pot, but truth be told i always add some vallejo thinner and airbrush flow improver to any paint i use and have had consistent results that way…
I'm rather enjoying GW's airbrush range myself, prefer them to Vallejo at the mo. FW's range is even better though and they really don't need much thinning if any for most jobs, their clear and metallic ranges in particular are very good.
The pots don't bother me either as I'm not keen on the little dropper bottles that many others come in and as most paints need thinning any way I tend to make a mix in a larger, wider necked dropper bottle that can be picked up for pence from many places so it's not really an issue. I actually bought some very good ones in a variety of sizes from Warcolours recently along with their range of brushes which make a nice change from Series 7's.