You’ve seen the test models I did for my upcoming Eldar army of Craftworld Iybraesil, and I promised you a tutorial. Well, here it is. Enjoy the complete step-by-step tutorial for a Guardian Defender of Craftworld Iybraesil after the jump.
This tutorial assumes you have a good understanding of how to paint. It involves paints from a lot of different brands, mixing paints and custom washes. I also used an airbrush to speed certain steps up, though you can acchieve the same result by using only a paint brush. Underneath each picture are the corresponding instructions. Each step shows the paint(s) I used during that step. If I use a non-GW paint, I try my best to give you suitable alternatives [in brackets].
Paints I used for this tutorial:
Grey Primer (Army Painter Uniform Grey Colour Primer)
Guilliman Blue (OOP – use Talassar Blue thinned with Contrast Medium)
Pallid Wych Flesh
Adeptus Battlegrey (OOP – use Mechanicum Standard Grey)
Codex Grey (OOP – use Dawnstone)
Steel Legion Drab
Vallejo Game Colour Falcon Turquoise
VGC Brown Ink
VGC Black Ink
VGC Sepia Ink
VGC Imperial Blue
VGC Brassy Brass
VGC Squid Pink
VGC Wolf Grey
VGC Steel Grey
Vallejo Gloss Coat (100% acrylic version)
Vallejo Glaze Medium
The Army Painter Warpaints Strong Tone Ink
Warpaints Blue Tone Ink
Warpaints Dark Tone Ink
Warpaints Soft Tone Ink
Warpaints Shining Silver
Warpaints Matt White
Privateer Press Formula P3 Coal Black
P3 Carnal Pink
In case you need to expand your paint collection, head over to Wayland Games and Element Games, which both stock a huge selection of paints at competitive prices.
How to paint Iybraesil Guardian Defenders
1. The model was primed with a Army Painter’s Uniform Grey primer [any primer will do, but a medium grey makes a great undercoat for turquoise]. As you notice I kept the heads seperately, to be primed in a different colour later on. Once the primer was dry, I used my airbrush to apply an even coat of Vallejo Game Color Falcon Turquoise [you can use Sotek Green, but it’s slightly darker and not as vibrant]. Finally I applied a thin coat of Vallejo Gloss Coat, with my airbrush as well. This will help with the wash later. If you don’t own an airbrush, you can apply multiple thin coats with a big brush instead.
2. I painted the sand texture of the base with XV-88. I drybrushed heavily with Terminatus Stone and applied a generous wash of Army Painter’s Warpaints Strong Tone Ink [Devlan Mud, Agrax Earthshade is not as dark]. Where I hit the feet I restored the base colour and reapplied the gloss coat.
3. Now I created a custom wash, made up of Warpaints Blue Tone Ink, Coelia Greenshade, Guilliman Blue and Vallejo Glaze Medium at the (rough) ratio of 3:1:1:2 [Blue Tone Ink can be replaced with old Asurmen Blue, Drakenhof Nightshade is too blackish]. Basically you want a wash that that matches the colour of Formula P3 Coal Black [or Stegadon Scale Green]. The Glaze Medium and and the glossy surface of the model will help the wash to flow better into the recesses while staining the flat areas less. I applied the wash all over the bodysuit. You’ll see there will be very little pooling – if there is still too much, add more glaze medium for a better result.
4. In this step I checked the model and refined the shadows with P3 Coal Black [Stegadon Scale Green], if needed. I mixed a little bit of Coal Black into Falcon Turquoise, to match the colour of the bodysuit after the wash, and cleaned up any areas where the wash left an uneven result.
5. I mixed a little bit of Warpaints Matt White [any white paint will do] into Falcon Turquoise and applied a first edge highlight.
6. I mixed more white into the base colour and applied a second highlight to the most pronounced areas. As you can see, I prepared a larger amount of both paint mixes in spare bottles.
7. I basecoated the gun and the armour details with Rakarth Flesh.
8. For this step I created a custom ink wash of VGC Black Ink, Brown Ink and Sepia Ink in a ratio of about 2:2:1. You can also use Wyldwood Contrast paint or thinned P3 Battlefield Brown [Dryad Bark]. I applied the ink directly into the recesses and cleaned up the result with the base colour where needed.
9. I painted all black areas with Abaddon Black.
10. I edge-highlighted the bone areas with Pallid Wych Flesh [in fact I used Polished Bone from Pegasus Farben, which are relabeled Reaper Master Series paints, it’s essentially the same shade as Pallid Wych Flesh].
11. Finally I applied a second edge highlight with Warpaints Matt White [any white will do].
12. I highlighted the black areas with Eshin Grey.
13. I painted the hose that comes out of the grip with Adeptus Battlegrey [Mechanicum Standard Grey] and washed it with slighty thinned VGC Black Ink.
14. I applied a second highlight of Codex Grey [Dawnstone] to the black areas. Highlight the hose with Codex Grey, too.
15. I basecoated the blue ribbon with VGC Imperial Blue [old Regal Blue], washed with Warpaints Dark Tone Ink [Badab Black or Nuln Oil] and reapplied the base colour while leaving the recesses dark.
16. I applied a highlight of Caledor Sky.
17. Then I applied a second highlight of Lother Blue and glazed the whole ribbon with Guilliman Blue. Don’t use the glaze like a wash, just take a little on your brush and spread it thinly over the ribbon to intensify the hue, don’t drown the model with it.
18. I basecoated the jewelry with VGC Brassy Brass and highlighted with Sycorax Bronze.
19. I wash the jewelry with Warpaints Soft Tone [Gryphonne Sepia or Seraphim Sepia]. Once dry, I applied a final highlight of Warpaints Shining Silver [it’s the same as old Mithril Silver, but you can also use Runefang Steel].
20. I basecoated the gems with Khorne Red and applied a first highlight with Wazdakka Red. When highlighting gems, concentrate more and more on the lower right half with every successive highlight.
21. I added two more stages of highlighting with Pink Horror and VGC Squid Pink.
22. I added a final highlight of P3 Carnal Pink [you can also mix white with Squid Pink instead] and a little dot in the upper left of the gem.
23. Finally it was time to paint the helmet. I primed the helmet with white Vallejo Surface Primer, but Army Painter Matt White colour primer works as well. I painted the eye lenses with Wazdakka Red and highlighted the lower half with Emperors Children. Paint the black faceplate as laid out in stage 9, 12 and 14.
24. I created a wash by mixing VGC Wolf Grey with Vallejo Glaze medium about 2:3 and applied the mix into the recesses of the white helmet. I know, you can hardly make it out on the picture.
25. Then I took VGC Steel Grey [Fenrisian Grey], thinned it with some water and added an even darker shade to thelmet.
26. Finally I used several thin coats of Matt White to neaten up the white helmet. The trim of the base was painted with Steel Legion Drab.
To complete the model, I added some bleached static grass (arid static grass by Gale Force 9), added a transfer with the guardian rune with the help of Microsol (check out the tutorial here) and applied a coat of matt varnish.
Finished Eldar / Aeldari Guardians & more tutorials
And here is the finished Guardian Defenders Squad in the glorious turquoise of Craftworld Iybraesil:
I also have another Eldar / Aeldari themed tutorial here:
And, always helpful, a guide for painting gemstones:
How do you like my Craftworld Iybraesil paint scheme? Leave a comment or question below!
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Where do I get the Pegasus paints?
This is the only link I found: http://www.tellurian-games.de/Farben-Pegasus But from what I can gather, Pegasus stopped selling them so all there is available are probably remnants. But Pegasus Farben are relabeled Reaper Master Series paints, so just get them instead.
It's nice that you're using the same format that Garfy's been using for tutorials but also refreshing that you don't purely use the new Citadel paints. I'm the same with a mix of colours from across the board.
Also I'm jealous of how clean your models always look.
Superb work as always. The gems must have been a pain to get through.
For models with lensed eyes (space marines, eldar, etc.) what kind of brush do you use? Even with the finest tip I get a boatload of paint in the sockets and ruin models. What is your trick?
I use a Winsor & Newton Series 7 M size 00 for such work. The trick is to paint the lenses first and the black faceplate. So you can be messy, and then paint the black around to neaten it up.
Hi. Really love your painting and your tutorials. They are an inspiration and a big help to someone new to painting like me. I'm trying to follow your tutorial here and I've having trouble with shading the bodysuit after basecoat, uneven colours, recess not being pronounced enough. Do you water down the custom ink? I tried that at first but it tool forever to dry! Do you just use one coat of the custom ink? Should I use the gloss coat? Also, I can only find Vallejo Gloss Varnish or Gloss Medium?
Sorry for all the questions!
Absolutely amazing! Particularly love the colour scheme for the weapons.
Thought I'd share my efforts with you, if that's okay?
love it! thank you so much once again!
Great tutorial. Can someone please clue me in as to what brush to use for the edge detail? I totally understand the process here and have painted hundreds of minis that all fall apart when it comes to doing the highlighting. Any advice? TIA.
I use Series 7 M brushes from Winsor & Newtwon, specifically Size 00 and 000 for highlighting. I solely use these brushes for highlighting, not basecoating or washing, treated this way they'll last for years. The XS Artificer brush from GW should be a decent option as well (manufactured by W&N, should be pretty identical to Series 7 brushes), though more expensive.
A reply from the master himself! Thanks for taking the time. I will definitely look into those brushes. Much appreciated. I hope my Eldar turn out even close to yours. Thanks again.
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Wow, that is amazing. The level of technical detail that you go into is brilliant.
I started reading this blog for Garfy's hobbit stuff, and I know he has made those intentionally more basic for the unwashed masses such as myself to be able to replicate them. Having you show the (insane) level of detail that you guys normally go to in producing your minis is much appreciated, breathtaking, and terrifying!
Brilliant guide Stahly, danke.