Tutorial: How to paint Aeldari Voidscarred Corsairs from Kill Team: Nachmund

Even though the finished model will be rather dark, spray the model with Corax White primer, as we want to use Contrast paints and washes on certain elements to speed things up. Then paint any areas the primer didn’t reach with Corax White base paint.

Paint the texture of the base with XV-88, then drybrush the sand with Wraithbone base paint or Terminatus Stone. Wash the sand with The Army Painter Warpaints Strong Tone Wash [or Agrax Earthshade].

Paint the inside of the coat with Vallejo Model Color Black [or Abaddon Black], and also the parts of the armour that cannot be seen later or are difficult to reach with a brush, so that the bright Corax White does not peek out from some nook or cranny at the end.

Basecoat the armour with Screamer Pink. Multiple thin coats are needed to cover the white.

Mix Warpaints Dark Tone Wash [or Nuln Oil] 1:1 with Contrast Medium and apply it all over the armour. Soak up any excess with a damp brush to minimize pooling. Once dry, repeat the process.

Tidy up the armour by mixing a little bit of black into Screamer Pink (or use Barak Nar Burgundy) and layer the mix over any areas where the wash dried unevenly. You can also use thinned black to pick out any armour panels or recesses that need deeper shading.

Apply a chunky edge highlight of Formula P3 Sanguine Highlight [or a Screamer Purple / Wazdakka Red mix] to the armour.

Edge highlight the armour with Pink Horror.

Apply Slaughter Red from The Army Painter’s new Speedpaint range over the ribbons, sashes, and topknot [or use Flesh Tearers Red with a little bit of Volupus Pink mixed in]. Sorry, I forgot to put the helmet on for this photo.

Highlight the crimson details with Pink Horror.

Apply a fine edge highlight of thinned Vallejo Game Color Squid Pink [or Fulgrim Pink or Pink Horror mixed with White Scar].

Wash the reptilian hide with two coats of Scale75 Instant Color Basilisk Green [Terradon Turquoise thinned with Contrast Medium might achieve a similar effect]. Soak up any excess with a damp brush, and let the model dry horizontally to prevent gravity from pulling the wash downwards.

Apply a third coat of Basilisk Green, but this time spare the centre of the coat.

To build up a dark gradient toward the edges, apply a coat of Dark Tone Wash around the edges.

Wash the outmost edges and corners of the coat with Black Templar (thinned Abaddon Black is also fine).

Pick out the scales with a wash of Akhelian Green.

Give the scales a chunky edge highlight of Sotek Green.

Apply a finer edge highlight of Temple Guard Blue.

Give the sharpest corners of the scales a dot of Baharroth Blue to make them look glossy and reflective.

Paint the remaining black details on the gun and back fin with VMC Black [or Abaddon Black].

Mix VMC Black [or Abaddon Black] with VMC Dark Grey [or Eshin Grey] and apply a soft highlight on the cape only.

Highlight all the black areas with VMC Dark Grey [or Eshin Grey].

Apply another, even thinner highlight with Dawnstone. Use this sparingly on the fabric. Also basecoat the undersuit with Dawnstone as well.

Wash the ribbed undersuit with Basilicanum Grey.

Tidy up the Corax White basecoat if necessary and apply two coats of Gore-grunta Fur over any leather details.

Wash the brown leather with Warpaints Dark Tone Wash [or Nuln Oil] to make it even darker.

Highlight the leather with P3 Bloodstone [or mix a little bit of Doombull Brown into Skrag Brown or Deathclaw Brown].

Complete the leather by applying an even finer highlight of Deathclaw Brown.

Basecoat bronze details with VGC Brassy Brass (I prefer the consistency of the Air version but the regular one is also fine) [or Brass Scorpion].

Apply a soft highlight of Sycorax Bronze. This is only needed on larger bronze parts such as the gun casing and shoulder guard.

Wash the bronze areas with Seraphim Sepia.

Deepen the shading by applying VGC Brown Ink [or Gore-grunta Fur] directly into the recesses.

Highlight the bronze with VMC Air Steel [or Stormhost Silver].

Paint the core of the blaster barrel with VGC Scurvy Green [or Lupercal Green], and also apply a chunky edge highlight on the front two-thirds of the barrel to build up the source lighting effect.

Paint the front half of the core with a 2:1 mix of VGC Scurvy Green and VGC Jade Green [or Lupercal Green and Kabalite Green].

Paint the front two-thirds of the core with VGC Jade Green [or Kabalite Green] and also apply an even finer edge highlight.

Paint about half of the core and the nozzle with Reaper Master Series Mint Green [or Gauss Blaster Green].

Add a thin line of VGC Scurvy Green [or Lupercal Green] to separate the core from the casing.

Use VGC Foul Green to smoothen the gradient of the core section and to highlight the front of the barrel to intensify the source lighting effect.

Highlight the nozzle with a mix of RMS Mint Green and VMC White [or Gauss Blaster Green and White Scar].

Place a dot of VMC White [or White Scar] in the barrel.

Basecoat the grenades with Rakarth Flesh.

Apply a recess wash of Wyldwood, then clean up with Rakarth Flesh.

Highlight the grenades with Reaper Master Series Polished Bone [or mix Rakarth Flesh with Pallid Wych Flesh or White Scar].

Add a finer edge highlight of VMC White [or White Scar].

Basecoat the gems and eye lenses with Stegadon Scale Green.

Layer the gems with Sotek Green while sparing a circle in the upper left corner. Also, paint the eye lenses, but leave a thin line of Stegadon Scale Green visible.

Highlight the lower third of the gems with Temple Guard Blue.

Add an even thinner highlight of TAP Royal Cloak to the lower right corner of the gems. Also highlight the lower edge of the lenses as well.

Highlight only the lower right corner of the gems with a little bit of VGC Wolf Grey [or Blue Horror] and place little dots in the upper corners of the lenses and gems.

Paint the trims of the base with a few thin coats of Steel Legion Drab.