There has been a lot of coverage about Citadel Contrast before, but this review is your one-stop resource for everything there is to know about Contrast, including a handy “cheat sheet” of mixes of Contrast paints mixed with various mediums and comparisons with other washes and inks on the market. Find out what Contrast can do (and what it cannot do) after the jump.
Be prepared, this is a long review. If you’re short on time, scroll down all the way below, where I compiled a summary of key learnings.
Citadel Contrast – The range
Citadel Contrast comprises 34 colours, plus Contrast Medium, a colourless medium that is used to thin down Contrast paints, two specifically formulated primers (Wraithbone and Greyseer) with two matching base paints.
|Image from warhammer-community.com. Used without permission.|
To get a feeling of how these colours look in real life, check out these handy guides, courtesy of Warhammer Chelmsford:
Contrast paint pots contain 18ml of paint, priced at 6.30 €/£4.75 (0.35 €/£0.264 per ml). In comparison, regular Citadel paints are 3.60 €/£2.75 and comprise 12 ml (so 0.30 €/£0.229 per ml), or 6.30 €/£4.75 for 24 ml with their shade paints (0.263 €/£0.198 per ml).
The Army Painter Quickshade Inks comprise 18ml at 2.75 €/£2.25 (0.153 €/£0.125 per ml). Other popular brands like Vallejo paints are 2.75 €/£2.45 for 18 ml (0.153 €/£0.136 per ml), while Formula P3 paints from Privateer Press are priced at 3.30 €/£3.25 for 18 ml (0,183 €/£0.18 per ml).
Citadel Contrast paints are therefore the most expensive miniature paints on the market – by far! The Army Painter and Vallejo paints cost less than the half per ml.
Citadel Contrast – The properties
Citadel Contrast paints have a unique formula that is similar to washes like Citadel Shade paints, Army Painter’s Quickshade Inks or Vallejo Game Color Inks – but not exactly the same. Apparently, Games Workshop did a lot of development to come up with the unique composition.
Contrast paints are transparent by nature, even when applying several layers. They dry with a matt smooth finish. The base colour will always shine through, so you’ll ideally want to apply them over a light basecoat. Don’t apply them too thinly, as the medium won’t be able to do its magic. Better to apply more and soak up any excess with a clean brush. Because of the transparent nature, the colour of the basecoat will affect the outcome of the paint – see the guides by Warhammer Chelmsford above.
Actually, you don’t necessarily need Games Workshop’s Greyseer and Wraithbone primers – in fact, any light basecoat will do. I successfully tested Corax White or Matt White Color Primer from The Army Painter.
You could even experiment with painting the darker Contrast over “medium” base colours, for example, Wyldwood (dark brown) over Baneblade Brown (medium khaki/light brown) for a really deep dark brown.
Or mix your Contrast paints with a lot of Contrast Medium or Lahmian Medium to use them like a wash or glaze. You can even apply them over metallic paints for a cool tinting effect:
The pigments used for Contrast paints are really strong and vibrant. In comparison to Citadel Shades or other washes, Contrast Paints have a slightly higher viscosity, which means they are not as “runny”. I recommend washing your brushes a lot when using them, as the heavily pigmented colour easily creeps up into the ferrule of your brush, where it might dry and make short work of the bristles.
Like washes, Citadel Contrast paints work best on models with a lot of texture and organic details like fur, hair, scales, muscles, clothes with a lot of creases, segmented armour and the like. These kinds of “textures” allow the pigments to smoothly run into the recesses. On larger flat areas the pigments will gather and pool, resulting in an uneven finish. The darker the Contrast paint, the more noticeable this will be. Here is a Primaris Imperial Fist for example:
It becomes even more apparent when applied on a tank:
These kinds of models and details are better painted with the traditional approach: an even basecoat, selective shading by applying a wash or thinned paint directly into the recesses, then highlighting by layering or drybrushing.
Contrast paints can be airbrushed, but, similar to washes or inks, they act more like filters because of their transparent nature:
Along with the 34 shades of Contrast Games Workshop also sells two types of spray primers with a matching base paint: Greyseer, which is a light grey (similar to Ulthuan Grey), and Wraithbone, a light bone colour (similar to Terminatus Stone). Advertised to have a special formula best suitable for Citadel Contrast paints, these primers have a slightly smoother, more satin finish. The smoother finish helps to reduce the surface tension of the paint, so the pigments will better run into the recesses and reduce the amount of pooling (slightly). This effect will also benefit washes like Citadel Shade paints by the way.
Of course, you can apply Citadel Contrast over any paint or primer. I found that Corax White and Matt White Colour Primer from The Army Painter also have a smooth finish that works very well with Contrast paints. However, I found that the off-white hues of Citadel’s primers will enrich the Contrast colours a lot, especially Wraithbone in combination with warm Contrast colours like yellow, orange, red, skin tones, and brown.
The Contrast spray primers also come with matching base paint versions. I only tested Wraithbone so far and as you can see, the result is pretty close. However, even though Wraithbone is a base paint, the coverage is as you would expect from a light, almost white bone colour – not that great. It took me about 6 or 7 thin layers for perfect coverage over a medium grey primer. Because of the number of layers, I had to apply the result wasn’t perfectly smooth and I noticed the Contrast paint dried noticeably more uneven. Contrast paints really benefit from a perfectly smooth base coat.
Pro-tip: Apply a coat of satin varnish before you use Citadel Contrast if you don’t have one of Games Workshop’s primers. The smooth finish of the varnish will basically have the same effect.
Experimenting with Contrast paints & Contrast Medium
On this handy comparison sheet, I demonstrate several different approaches of applying Citadel Contrast paint, straight from the pot or thinned down with Contrast or Lahmian Medium, as well as comparisons with similar washes and inks.
Personally, I feel Guilliman Flesh produces rather stark results (as do the Fyreslayer Flesh and Darkoath Flesh from my experience). Fine for very muscular and animated faces, but I guess I’d prefer Reikland Fleshshade for the softer shading. Two coats of Reikland Fleshshade are pretty close to a single layer of Guilliman Flesh.
Contrast paints really benefit from a smooth primer (as do washes, as you can see). I also applied Guilliman Flesh over Wraithbone base paint. As a lot of layers were needed for a perfect coverage, the finish wasn’t as smooth as with spray primer. You can see the Guilliman Flesh dried more uneven because of that. Sealing the surface with a coat of satin varnish might help to reduce this effect.
Contrast paint thinned 1:1 with Contrast or Lahmian Medium essentially turns them into a wash – as the Contrast range has 34 colours there is a lot of potentials to create unique washes. I guess I’d use Contrast Medium when you only want to thin down your Contrast paint slightly or want to create a glaze, while using Lahmian Medium when you want to turn your Contrast paint into a wash.
Contrast Medium is basically Contrast Paint without pigments, used to thin down Contrast paints. It’s not recommended to thin Contrast paints with water, as they will lose their unique properties. Compared to Lahmian Medium, Contrast Medium has a slightly higher viscosity and is not as “runny”. I guess I’d use Contrast Medium when you only want to thin down your Contrast paint slightly or want to create a glaze, while using Lahmian Medium when you want to turn your Contrast paint into a wash.
Also check out this video for a better impression of the differences between Contrast and Lahmian Medium:
Painting with inks is very similar to painting with Contrast paints. You can see the comparison between Black Templar and Vallejo Game Color Black Ink. After two coats of Black Ink, the most pronounced details on the chest aquila stand out more, however Black Templar is much smoother on the flat areas.
What about touching up mistakes? Because of their transparent nature, you can’t just paint another layer of Contrast paint over any paint spills. You’d need to apply your base colour first, then add another layer of Contrast. However, I found this often creates a “patchy” look. I prefer painting a matching regular acrylic paint over paint spills.
Citadel Contrast – taken a step further
I’ve read a lot of people argue that Contrast paint is a product for “noobs”. I don’t believe that’s true, because actually, you need a lot of brush control so you don’t spill over or let it dry in pools. Instead, Contrast can be a valuable tool for experienced painters to speed up their painting and achieve unique effects.
It’s easy to take things one step further by adding more definition with layering and highlighting and/or tidying up pooled areas by painting over with regular acrylic paints.
Here you can see what a combination of Citadel Contrast paints and some highlights looks like:
— naytoe (@naytoe) May 28, 2019
Here we have an example by one of GW’s army painters. The skin of this Blue Horror was painted with Talassar Blue mixed 4:1 with Contrast Medium, the hands with Akhelian Green, again 4:1 with Contrast Medium, apparently blended when still wet. The Contrast Medium helps to reduce the pooling, especially on the flat surface of the tendrils. Upon closer inspection, you can still see some areas with a slightly uneven finish, like on the tail on the second picture. Brush control is still important with Contrast paints, try to soak up excess paint with your brush before it pools and dries.
Stormcast Eternals Astral Templar painted with Contrast paints (and metallics) and highlights. I’m really happy with this one and now of course I’m tempted to paint more of them. Tutorial coming soon. pic.twitter.com/SqQLsqN1s2
— Mengel Miniatures (@MengelMinis) June 6, 2019
An excellent example by Tyler Mengels. Some sharp and accurate highlights add more definition and draw the eye away from areas where the Contrast paint might have pooled. The curved armour of Stormcasts suit the properties of Contrast paints much better than flat and angular armour of Space Marines. On organic details like hair and fur Contrast shines.
It’s contrast time! Those Tau have been paint using the new contrast paint, straight from the pot with only one high lights. The lense and the metalic part are off course, not contrast paint. #paintingwarhammer #warhammer40k #contrastpaint pic.twitter.com/DFMW3T4pHm
— Tangui Jollivet / Melcor TWHaegemonia. (@Jollivettangui) June 5, 2019
The T’au Fire Warriors and Battle Suit are quite nice. The pooling on the flat armour panels is noticeable in a close-up, but shouldn’t be a problem at an arms length. Some colours lend to more pooling, while others, such as Blood Angels Red, not so much.
Keep in mind that that Tangui, a member of the GW army painting team, mentioned that good brush control was needed to keep the pooling at a minimum when painting the armour, and that a Battle Suit is probably one of the largest “flat armour” models that can be reasonably painted with Contrast paints before the pooling gets too much.
Here is a try of my own:
Step 1 is Contrast paint, straight from the pot or slightly thinned with Contrast Medium, over a basecoat of Corax White. Step 2, I applied some quick layers of matching regular acrylic paints to even out the result on flat areas and remove any unwanted pooling. I only did this in the areas marked in blue. Step 3, I added a couple of highlights.
All in all, the results are very nice for the high tabletop standard I usually go for. It also saved me a lot of time by combining base colour and shading in one go, especially on the orange clothes – even over white primer, it takes several layers of achieving an even coat of orange. With Contrast, it’s just a single coat straight from the pot (or two, in my case, to make the colour even richer).
The loincloth will be painted with Flesh Tearers Red once I can get my hands on this paint, the rest of the model will be painted with traditional painting techniques and washes. I’ll update the review with the finished model once it’s done.
The verdict / key learnings
The idea of painting over white primer or a white zenithal highlight with glazes and washes isn’t new but an approach often used by competition level painters. But the real genius of Games Workshop was to turn this technique in an easy and satisfying product for the masses.
Used correctly by playing to the strengths of the Contrast formula, Contrast paints can be a real time saver and produce fantastic results. Still, it might not be a product for everyone. If you are used to painting over black or dark primers, it might take a while to get used to this approach of painting.
Here is a handy summary of key learnings when using Contrast paints:
+ Contrast paints have very vibrant pigments, dry with a matt finish and create a lot of “tonal variety”: recesses are suitable dark, pronounced areas lighter. Therefore, with a single layer of Contrast, you can combine basecoating and shading in a single step and will often end up with some basic highlights as well.
+ Don’t apply Contrast paints too thinly or else the medium can’t do its magic.
+ Because Contrast paints are slightly transparent, they work best over light basecoats. The colour of the basecoat will affect the result because of the transparency – a warm basecoat like Wraithbone will enrichen warm colours like yellow, orange, red, pink, skin tones, brown, and green, while cool basecoats like Greyseer or Corax White will benefit cool colours like turquoise, blue, purple, grey, and black.
+ However, you don’t necessarily need Wraithbone or Greyseer primer, so feel free to experiment with other base colours.
+ Contrast paints mixed 1:1 with Contrast or Lahmian Medium will turn your paint into a wash or glaze – great for creating pink or turquoise washes that you can’t find anywhere else.
+ Contrast paints need to be thinned with Contrast Medium, as water will make them lose their unique properties. They can be mixed with each other, with washes (or even regular paint, but this will change their properties, too).
+ Contrast paints benefit a lot from a smooth basecoat (as do washes) and are best used directly over the primer. A coat of varnish might help to smoothen uneven basecoats.
+ When the basecoat is smooth, most Contrast paints will dry with a surprisingly smooth an even finish. However, like washes, Contrast paints still have a tendency to pool on larger flat surfaces. Soak up any excess paint with a clean brush to reduce the amount of pooling.
+ Having said that, like washes, Contrast paints work best on models with a lot of texture, organic details like fur, hair, scales, muscles, clothes with a lot of creases, segmented armour and the like.
+ Because of the transparency, you can’t just paint over another layer to hide any mistakes. You need to paint on the base colour first, but even then, the result often will be patchy. I recommend painting over with a matching regular acrylic paint.
+ You can easily paint over Contrast paints to tidy up pooled areas, deepen the shading, or add highlights by layering or drybrushing.
+ Contrast paints are great at tinting metallic colours. When applied with an airbrush, they act like transparent filters.
+ Wash your brushes a lot, as the high-pigmented paint will easily creep up into the ferrule of your brush.
+ Citadel Contrast paints are the most expensive miniature paints per ml on the market – by far. The Army Painter and Vallejo paints cost less than half per ml!
Hope you enjoyed our review! We’d be glad to hear about your experiences in the comments below.
Also, stay tuned for more Citadel Contrast coverage and tutorials to get the most out of your Contrast paints!
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